Friday, November 28, 2008

Lorraine


People in France are very proud of their department and their region. Many people’s families live in a particular region for generations and generations. I live in the department of Moselle which lies in the region of Lorraine. The people of Lorraine and Alsace are especially proud. Lorraine for example, has its own Association of Patriotism. Many people from Alsace and Lorraine don’t even refer to themselves as French. They are Alsacien’s or Lorrain’s. A friend explained that this attitude is a result of the struggle between Germany and France to exploit the mines in Alsace-Lorrain during the World Wars. My friends Grandmother lived in the same house her entire life and her “nationality” changed four times.

In an effort to divert future conflicts the coal and iron mines of Alscace-Lorraine were used as the start of a Common European Market in the 50’s. Later, this common market evolved into the European Union. The mines and factories were the driving force behind the economy in Lorrain. Entire cities were built around the mines and Emigrants flocked to this area seeking work. The mines sponsored schools, hospitals, sports teams, musical ensembles, parties, housing, and more. Children of seven started working in the mines and at 14 many kids left school for full time employment as a miner. Most miners didn’t own a car because; work, the grocery store, family, and friends were all within walking distance. Mining started to decline in the sixties and the last mines closed definitively in the early nineties. When the mines closed, the mine towns were abandoned. Those who could moved, those who couldn’t were often impoverished. Eighteen years after the mines closed the old mine towns are starting to revitalize as middle class people leave Metz in search of affordable housing. After their closure most mines filled with water, but a few are maintained as museums. I recently had the opportunity go on a field trip with my school to a mine. The tour was led by an old miner who brashly recounted the dangers of mining.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Pretty French People

Hygiene and appearance were mentioned on the first page of the first chapter in a French Civics book. It was discussed immediately after, liberty, fraternity, and equality. A friend of mine used the proverb, “If you love yourself, other people will love you” to explain the importance of appearance. She told me being well put together is evidence of self love.

Well put together French women wear heels more often than American women. There is noticeably more heels here than there is in laid back Bellingham; where some people don’t even wear shoes. As unbelievable as it sounds, I saw one woman bowling in heels. Another time I went on a 45 minute walk with two women who were both wearing heels. On a different occasion spent all day walking around Luxembourg with a woman who was wearing heels. The thing that tops it all off was the shirt I saw that said, “I’m afraid of tennis shoes”. This fanaticism for heels is really strange for me. Currently I don’t own heals, and when I did have heels I wore them for short periods on nice occasions.

French men are much more fashionable too. Trendy men are common place and it isn’t considered a sign of being gay or metro-sexual. Classy clothes and pointed toes on shoes is what a good looking French man is made of.

I don’t think I can ever make friends with heels, but I have made a small effort to be prettier in France. I wear make up more often, and I’ve started regularly painting my nails. I haven’t bought any clothes here, but I don’t dare wear a t-shirt at school or in a bar. Occasionally I feel underdressed, but not enough that I’m ready to buy clothes.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

Alcohol

My latest goal is to become an expert in making wine sauces. Wine is ridiculously cheap in France. The closest equivalent to the Grocery Outlet in France is called Lidil. All the wine at Lidil is under 4 euros and everything I have tried is really good. So far my favorite is a half dry Riesling that costs 1.50 euro.

Alcohol at the grocery store is a lot cheaper in France than it is in the United States. Yet the alcohol in a bar is a lot more expensive in France than it is in the United States. A friend told me that the price of drinks in a bar includes the cost of a heavy tax. At a dance club in Metz, a beer costs about 5 euro and the cocktails start at 6. At a grocery store you can get 12 cheap but tasty beers for just under 5 euro. I was also shocked to discover that one can buy an entire bottle of hard alcohol at a club. A bottle of hard-a in a club runs between 50 and 80 euro. You can buy the same bottle at a grocery store for less than 20 euro and there is plenty of hard alcohol under 10 euro.

At a smaller bar where people sit and chat the drinks are about half as much as they are in a club. Nevertheless drinking in a small quite bar is still way more expensive than buying at the grocery store. At a small bar one can simply ask for a beer, and not specify what kind. If you ask for a beer you will get the local brew on tap. It is the cheapest beer at the bar and I’ve liked every one I’ve tried.

Friday, November 7, 2008

X-ray

I was recently x-rayed to see if I had Tuberculosis. This is required of all foreigners in France who are seeking a residency card. The x-ray took 15 minutes from the time I arrived until the time I left. I had the feeling that I was a product in a small medical factory. No one ever told me their name, or pretended to want to know how I am doing. I was simply invited into a small closet and told to leave my necklace and shirt on a hook. As I was undressing I could hear instructions to breath in and breath out from the adjoining room. Then I heard, “thank you” and the sound of the closet to the left of mine opening. Without missing a beat or knocking, my closet was opened and the radiologist requested my name as well as the status of my baby-maker. After assuring her I wasn’t pregnant, the radiologist arranged me so that my naked torso was pressed against a bright orange wall. The wall had smudges on it; presumably oil from other peoples skin. I wasn’t bothered by the smudges or the toplessness, it’s just different than one would expect in the United States. When my x-ray was finished, I was led back to my closet, and as I was dressing I could hear the next round of x-rays. After waiting for 5ish minutes I was handed some paperwork. The only explanation offered was, “good-bye” and a smile.

Tuesday, November 4, 2008

Bisous

French people love to kiss, but don’t touch them! I’m a toucher. I frequently touch arms, and shoulders. I’m learning to keep my hands to myself though. When I touch French women they typically look alarmed, and the French men usually look a little too excited. I’m grudgingly getting used to less hugs as well. Fortunately my friend Ursula hugs me, and most of the kids I know hug me.

Kisses can’t replace hugs, but I do adore them. There is only one way to express kiss in English but the French have a few words. The kiss most common and platonic is the bisous. Bisous are quick kisses on each cheek. Kids are encouraged from day one to give bisous. If you know someone at all it is very likely that you will exchange bisous upon saying hello and goodbye. If a friend is introducing you to another friend, you exchange bisous, particularly if there is a woman involved. Two men being introduced by a common friend will likely shake until a relationship is more established. Bisous are so comon that people verbally send them over the telephone and radio. E-mails and text messages also frequently contain bisous.

The bisous has various levels of intimacy. If someone is just an acquaintance the bisous is a touching of the cheek and a kiss sound. If you know someone, bisous are real kisses on the cheeks. Under special circumstances one might grab the head of the person they are giving bisous. This doesn’t happen very often, but I’ve seen it, and it has happened to me once. Special circumstances being, birthdays, someone is feeling down, or something really exciting has just occurred.