Monday, January 26, 2009

Smile and Nod

Anybody who has been in a situation where they don’t speak the language of the majority quickly becomes an expert in the “Smile and Nod School of Communication”.

The “Smile and Nod” is a method of communication using universally acknowledged; facial expressions, shoulder shrugs, eye darting, and head nodding. Using this style of communication requires absolutely no study. Social scientists everywhere are engaged in a hot d debate about whether “Smile and Nod” is in fact an innate survival mechanism.

One can express a great number of things using “Smile and Nod”. “Yes of course!” “I’m not sure I understand, but okay.” “I’m utterly confused” are a few of the most common. Context and subtlety of gestures allows for an infinite number of phrases expressed through “Smile and Nod”

While “Smile and Nod” serves many people well, it doesn’t come without danger. Smile and Nodders are at an extreme disadvantage. Misunderstandings and the risk of being taken advantage of are very real.

An innocent smile and nod of the “Yes of Course!” variety has recently caught up to me. I bought my plane ticket back to the States over two weeks ago, however the cost of my ticket had not been withdrawn from my account. I finally decided it was time to talk to the nice people at my bank. Whereupon I learned that when I opened my account (the second day I was in France) I agreed that bills bigger than 150 euro would be paid for in three installments starting the month after purchase.

“Oh! Okay! Wow! I agreed to that?”

All is good, my plane ticket is still reserved, and I changed my debit card so that all transactions will be immediately activated. Furthermore I’ve long passed the “Smile and Nod” phase in France. Phew! I’m traveling to Sweden and Norway for the February vacation, so I imagine I’ll be using it again soon.

Friday, January 23, 2009

Elementary School

In Elementary school French students memorize two or more poems by heart every month. A friend explained to me that the history of France can be found in poetry. She also told me that poetry is used as a tool to teach students French. It is an interactive way to think about conjugations, tenses, and spelling. A lot of words sound alike in French but they are written with different endings or with a different gender. My French friend was shocked when I told her, that I might have memorized two poems my entire school career.

I think the use of poetry at a young age is excellent. The memorization requires parents to get involved because a five year old who can barely read can’t learn a poem without help. Additionally these young students start to have analytical conversations at a very young age. Through poetry French kids start to learn much earlier that the world isn’t as simple as right and wrong.

All elementary schools are closed on Wednesday. It is thanks to this that I have a babysitting job on Wednesday. It is considered too much for a kid to go to school 5 days a week. Even Middles Schools are only open in the morning on Wednesdays. Here in France, closing school on Wednesday is an unquestioned cultural assumption about what kids need. Just as in the United States nobody questions 40 minute lunch breaks and 5 day school weeks. I’m realizing a lot about my own cultural assumptions about normalcy through French cultural assumptions.

Saturday, January 17, 2009

Kindergarten in France

Despite teaching for nearly 4 months, it has been really hard for me to talk or write about it. I’m overwhelmed and I don’t feel like I have it all figured out yet. I’ve decided it’s time to broach the subject; ready or not. Here is the first of a few installations on the French School System and my teaching experience. Thanks for reading! Enjoy:):)

In France 84% of parents send their child to public kindergarten starting at age 3, although school isn’t compulsory until age 5. If the parents sign their child up for kindergarten at 3, they are obliged to keep sending them the following years. Three year olds go to school only in the morning.

All kindergarten’s are locked after school starts. Parents do not have the right to watch classes, pick up their child early or drop them off late. Ten years ago a man came into a kindergarten in Paris and murdered all the students with a gun. Since then the kindergarten doors have been locked for security reasons. The Kindergartens are open twice a year during school hours for parents to come look at their child’s work.

I thought closing the schools was an interesting reaction since almost nobody has a gun in France, and the probability of one of the rare gun holders doing a school shooting is pretty low. I think about how many school shootings their have been in the United States, and how the same discourse follows each time.

Currently there is legislation on the table to cut public education so that it starts at age 5. Everyone I have talked to is absolutely appalled by this. School is seen as an important part of socialization and 5 is considered way too late to start. School is also viewed as a social equalizer of sorts. Some kids don’t have parents that will start helping them learn to read and write at three, therefore school is considered pivotal to giving each child a similar educational opportunities.

Day cares are much rarer in France and they are not viewed with much respect. There is a lot of talk about how starting school at five would affect working mothers. The fact that the effect on women is being talked about is certainly a mark of progress in gender equality. However, why are women in question and not all parents? The answer is that; in France as in the United States, ‘parenting’ is frequently a thin disguise for ‘mothering’.

Tuesday, January 13, 2009

Adventures in Buying Floss

French people don’t love floss. I knew this before the need to purchase some arose, but the search brought me to a whole different level of understanding. After visiting three different grocery stores, in search of floss I finally asked someone where I could find some. I was surprised to learn that floss hangs out with all the medicine and herbs in the pharmacy. The medicinal status of floss wasn’t nearly as shocking as the price though. I paid 4 euro and 90 centime for floss! That is $ 6.70!

A friend explained that French dentists don’t usually recommend floss because they think it is hard on the gums. The status of floss is one of a few cultural differences I found in the accepted norms of health care. It’s been interesting to explore how health is also a product of culture, not just science. I don’t feel qualified to comment on the health benefits of floss but I’m willing to pay nearly $7 for floss because chunks become easily stuck in my teeth.

Sunday, January 11, 2009

Gallette des Rois


After Christmas and until a few days after January 6th French people celebrate “Gallette des Rois” which is loosely translated as “Kings Cake”. Gallette is originally a celebration of Kings Day which marks the 12th day of Christmas. The cake is a delicious flaky pastry with a little marzipan filling and a small figurine hidden inside. Whoever finds the figurine gets to be king or queen for the day. The honor does in fact come with a crown. I’m sure these little figurines would be banned in the United States on account of lawsuits due to choking.

Usually people celebrate Gallette with nearly everyone they know. Gallett is eaten at least once with the family, once at work, and with friends as well. It is such a fun tradition. Everyone eats their cake slowly and chats. At work I got one of the three possibilities to win a crown! I was so excited! Another woman and a man won crowns too. Since I am the youngest my colleagues demoted me to princess. I considered making jokes about prince charming or a Richard the III esque grab for power, but alas my French isn’t good enough and the moment passed before I could put something together.

The adorable little boy in the picture is Axel, son of Carole and Frank. (my French family)