Sunday, March 8, 2009

French High School

If a French middle school student passes a national exam they are invited to three years of high school. Upon entering high school students choose a track of study. Either they go for a language/literature track, a science/math track, or a mixture. The same legislation that is trying to reform French kindergarten is trying to reform the high schools to be more like the United States.

In France high school students are responsible for purchasing their own books. I was pretty shocked to learn about this, especially since University is nearly free. There are book scholarships for economically disadvantaged students but it still seems difficult to buy books in high school. Education prior to 18 is a gift from the state. It is in a countries best interest to have an educated population, and it seems like buying books is a bit of a hurdle.

Despite buying books, 80% of students receive the BAC. The BAC is roughly equivalent to the American high school diploma. Those who don’t go to high school or for some other reason don’t get the BAC receive education in a trade.

Perhaps it is my own cultural assumptions, but I don’t have any sense of school community in France. The schools here don’t have any school sponsored sports or dances. I have never seen anybody wearing school paraphernalia. Every class has a representative, but their isn’t a student government.

Monday, March 2, 2009

Hotdog

Ursula wanted to buy a hotdog at the end of a cold and windy day in Stockholm. So we stopped at the next vendor, which was staffed by a man in his 20’s. I translated the details of her hotdog options from English into French. After shivering, I tried to sympathize with the man fixing the hotdog.

“You must be cold out here all day! And you can’t even wear gloves!”

“You get used to it, and the fire helps” the vendor replied. “Are you French?”

“No, I’m from the Untied States, and she is from Chile, we live in France and teach our mother tongues, but we speak French to each other because I don’t speak Spanish and she doesn’t speak English. Where are you from?”

“Iraq.”

“I’m so sorry.” I immediately started fighting tears.

“It’s just politics.”

“How long have you been here?”

“I’ve been here a year and a half. They killed my family so I escaped Iraq.”
Ursula and the vendor exchanged the hot dog for the money. “I’m so sorry.”

“It’s politics.”

The second my back was turned on the vendor I couldn’t stop crying. Ursula had no idea what was going on, and I couldn’t speak for a while. How cruel that coming to a foreign country to sell hotdogs in subzero temperatures is a life improvement. I thought it was nice of him to use the impersonal “they”. After I got back to the hostel it took several hours of quite time and journaling before I felt ready to socialize.

Friday, February 27, 2009

Why I Travel

I feel compelled to travel. I have an insatiable curiosity about the world that can’t be satisfied by books. I’m an extremely physical person. My body buzzes when I engage all of my senses and expand my limits.

I want to seek out all the knowledge that I can. I don’t know what I am going to do with this knowledge, but I’m sure it will come in handy someday. Once I went to an informational meeting on French drivers license. The subject couldn’t have been less interesting, but I wanted to practice French. Later, my seemingly useless store of information came in handy when my friend got pulled over. Maybe I’ll have more experiences like that.

A short list of things I learned on my latest trip….
1.) Francophone Swiss bisous three times starting from the left.
2.) Norwegians start learning English at four years old
3.) 80% of Swedes speak English.
4.) Gustav Vigeland
5.) Gustav Klimt
6.) Theater etiquette
7.) Basic Tango
8.) New Foods
9.) New French music.
10.) Swedes like to celebrate travel with a drink, even at five in the morning.
11.) 10-15% of Jordanians are Christian.
12.) The opportunity to get a perspective on culture and politics in Jordan.
13.) Challenging conversations
14.) History
15.) Bauhaus

I don’t go looking for happiness in other countries. I’m not disappointed when I find that at a very fundamental level other countries are similar to my own. People are tired of work, they like to talk and eat. Everyone everywhere wants to be safe, happy, and loved. People are doing their best to take care of themselves and their families.

A big theme from my latest trip is wandering around towns, and talking with folks. It doesn’t sound that interesting; I don’t have to leave the United States to do that. There are pretty towns and interesting people everywhere. Every country has a psudo national identity as well as subcultures, and countercultures. So why buy plane tickets?

I get along with travelers. All my best friends in life are travelers. The people I meet on the road are kindred spirits. I appreciate and recognize fundamental similarities between other countries and my own, but I like details too. SAD didn’t affect me at all this winter because I was so stimulated by the newness and excitement of details like funny caddy’s in the grocery store.

My latest trip was particularly interesting, because it was the first time that I traveled in countries where I don’t speak the national language. The majority of people in Norway and Sweden speak English, but travel isn’t the same if one doesn’t speak the language. There is a big difference between travel and tourism. I’m cautiously willing to say that tourism is almost inevitable if one doesn’t speak the language. I don’t know anything about Swedish culture for example. Couchsurfing does a little bit to bridge the tourism versus travel gap. Nevertheless, I can’t say that after four days with one Norwegian that I have an understanding of Norwegian culture. I think of travel as a long stay, genuine cultural sharing, and language. I’m leery of the comodified element pervasive to tourism. Yet tourism has advantages, so I proceed with caution.

Indeed travel and tourism aren’t without problems. Travel is a privilege and it’s not great for the environment. I could easily be spending my time and money in more philanthropic ways. At it’s base, I believe travel is important to building a sense of global identity, compassion, and understanding. Travel also offers an invaluable opportunity to really understanding one’s mother culture. Even if someone never gets intimate with another culture, it doesn’t take much tourism to open a new perspective on home. Travel as an idea isn’t really problematic; it is the structures that surround it. Quitting travel isn’t an acceptable option; instead travelers should unite to make travel more accessible, less corporate, and more environmentally friendly.

Monday, February 23, 2009

Their, and Back Again

Ursula and I had a good time in Frankfurt. After I wrote the last blog, we wondered aimlessly around the city and talked. Ursula was very impressed with Frankfurt. Eventually we hit up a restaurant so that Ursula could sample some German cuisine. Then we continued wandering and talking. We stopped into some churches, paused for coffee breaks, and took pictures of pretty buildings. I’ve been to the Frankfurt Airport so many times, that it was nice to finally get to know the city a little better. Urusla and I didn’t have a map, but Frankfurt is on a grid and has some tall buildings so it was pretty easy to navigate.

That evening our couchsurfing host Gautier made us a wonderful diner and then we went out for a beer. Gautier is a really open minded positive guy. He is French, and he is doing an internship in Frankfurt to complete his last year of school. Soon he’ll be traveling around Eastern Europe for a month and then he’ll start another internship in Berlin. Gautier is 20 and he is also in the “Where am I going next!?” phase in his life, so it was especially good to talk to him. He has a lot of interests and talent so I’m sure he’ll work something out. Ursula, Gautier, and I talked about culture, beer, language, teaching, materialism, travel, tobacco, politics, etc… It was wonderful.

The next day, (Wednesday), Ursula and I set out for the airport. She caught a bus back to Metz, and I caught a plane to Oslo. I met up with Fredrik, my couchsurfing host without a problem. I was grateful that he fed me right away, because I was so hungry! Fredrik is a well traveled writer, and an avid tango dancer. Talking with him and trying tango was really neat. We shared meals together, and I learned a lot. More on that later….

Oslo is great! All the museums are free in the winter, and the buildings are super colorful.
I spent Thursday chasing after Edvard Munch. I came to Oslo, because I fell in love with Munch. Traveling to another country is the craziest thing I’ve ever done for love. I hope too keep it that way. I started the day in the National Gallery, and then I went to in the Munch Museum. The National Gallery had some of Munch’s best paintings, along with other outstanding pieces. I was floating! It’s not a big museum but I spent over three hours their. Unfortunately I wasn’t allowed to take pictures in the National Gallery.

Friday, Fredrik was kind enough to share the fortress and the town hall with me. I felt so grateful that he came along and told me about some history and culture. I know he must have seen those things hundreds of times. Later that day, I ventured out to the exquisite Gustav Vigeland sculpture park, and Fredrik went skiing. I was so impressed by the sculptures. I tired to take pictures, but it was difficult because sculptures are huge, and they are best appreciated in 3D.

Saturday I saw a Contemporary Art Museum. I wanted to see the Modern Art Museum, but for some weird reason it didn’t open when it was supposed to. Oh well. I didn’t understand the Contemporary Art, but appreciated the posters that described the philosophy behind the Contemporary Art Movement. In an overly simplified sound bite, “Contemporary Art tries to appreciate art as a process while celebrating the intrinsic beauty of everyday objects”. I’m really into that philosophy!

After Contemporary Art, I caught my plane home. I came in at midnight and my lovely friends cooked a meal for me and we chatted it up until nearly four in the morning. I get so sad when I think about leaving my friends. It was wonderful to have someone to come back to at the end of the trip, I missed them so much! Living alone isn’t too terrible if I have friends like that. I can’t imagine coming home to nobody after a long trip.

Well I’m back in Metz, and work starts tomorrow. I’ve kept a simplified account of my travels, but I have more to share, and I’m still processing. I think it will be a blog heavy week. You can check out my pictures on Facebook. I’ve also accepted a job in St. Louis as a tutor with AmeriCorps. More on all that later as well!

Tuesday, February 17, 2009

Stop-Over in Frankfurt

Ursula and I had a great time in Stockholm! It really is a magical place with all the islands, water, and bridges. Sunday We went out to the residence of the Royal family. The theater on the property is really renown, and Ursula is an actress so we we wanted to check it out, but unfortunately the theater was closed. We still had a good time though. Ursula stood on a frozen lake for the first time, and the palace was nice. We both loved taking the public transportation out to the palace. The palace is about 40 minutes outside of the main islands of Stockholm. After the palace we rode public transportation to other parts of Stockholm. It is such a treat to just ride around or walk around with water views and bridges everywhere.

Our hostel experience in Stockholm was really cool! We met a some awesome people and had great conversations. We walked around for two hours Saturday night trying to find a place to dance, but we were a group of 4 girls and 11 guys so no club would let us in.

Sunday night we hung out in the hostel and chatted. We played cards with a group of Francophone Swiss. They told us that the Swiss bisous three times starting from the left. In France we start from the right and bisous two times. I spent a long time talking to a Christian guy from Jordan who lives in the hostel full time. Their was also a really neat group of three roommates who study in Poland. One roommate was French, another Italian, and the other Turkish. I´m actually hoping to go visit them. We´ll see.....:):):)

Ursula and I got in to Frankfurt unexpectedly late, but our couchsurfing host was so gracious! We chatted a little bit last night, but he had work today so we´ll hang out some more tonight. Today Ursula and I are going to hang out in Frankfurt. We don´t have any particular plan at the moment. We´ll catch a bus back to the airport at 11am tomorrow. At the airport we are going to part ways. I´ll be couchsurfing in Oslo, but their was an unexpected change to Ursula´s plans so she´ll be heading back to Metz. I´ll be back in Metz on the 21st.

Saturday, February 14, 2009

Goodbye Berlin Hello Stockholm

The second hostel I stayed at in Berlin was definitely more active than the one Elizabeth and I stayed at the first two nights. A 17 year old boy invited me to go out with him and his friends, but decided it was best to do my laundry. I was hoping to connect with some people at the hostel but the washing machine was really old and I spent three hours doing my laundry. In the morning I got up early to make it to the museums.

The museum I went to was mostly about Picasso. I don't love Picasso the way I love Manet, Renoir, Munch Van Gogh, Emile, and Monet. I never get the feeling that I'm floating when I see Picasso's work, but he fascinates me. Picasso can render anything in a completely "normal" fashion, but frequently he chose not to. I'm interested in Picasso as a man. Why did he choose to render some things more in cubes, and other things, twisted or exaggerated. It is clear from Picasso's work that he has a sense of humor as well. His use of color is captivating. I've always been interested in Picasso because his work is weird, but listening to every track on the audio guide that the museum provided has only fueled my curiosity. I have added reading a biography about Picasso, and visiting the Picasso museum in Paris to my list of goals.

After I hung out with Picasso I saw another not so interesting museum and then I headed to the Berlin airport. Spending the day with myself wasn't as bad as I thought it would be, but I was super glad to see my friend Ursula when I landed in Frankfurt. We got to the Stockholm without a problem, and spent the night in the airport. At five in the morning the airport was full of people drinking beer. I'm not joking. Beer for breakfast. Ursula and I were shocked. I asked someone about it later and they said that people were drinking to celebrate their trip. Urusula and I had a good laugh about that. If we didn't ask, we would have thought that Swedes have beer everyday for breakfast. It is so easy to extrapolate based on one observation. Ive been trying to make observations without assumptions, but this experience showed me that I have lots more work to do.

At ten in the morning Ursula and I took a bus into Stockholm. When we arrived an hour and a half later we were amazed. Stockholm is built on several islands connected by bridges. It is truly phenomenal. I realized that every city I love is built on the water. Ursula and I immediately set out to find food, and a hostel. We were checking out hostels on a list from the tourist office but we unexpectedly found something else. It's a quite hostel in the old part of town that caters to families. The location is excellent because our little island is sandwiched between the two bigger islands and you have to pass through it to get from one big island to another. We're saving a lot of money on food because it's so easy to come back to the hostel to eat lunch. Ursula and I are eating really well in Stockholm because we supplement the food we bought with food from the free cupboard.

Stockholm is a big city, but unlike Berlin, it is very walkable. The main reason to be in Stockholm is to walk around looking at pretty buildings and water views. The highlight today was running into a troupe of dancers dressed completely in white. The dancers gestures were funny, beautiful, and inspiring. They walked around the city drawing attention to themselves. We joined the crowd that followed them to the venue. Ursula and I wanted to watch because we were both captivated, but we couldn't find a place where we could see.

Wednesday, February 11, 2009

Berlin

Berlin is a big city, but it is almost empty so there isn't all the hustle and bustle typical of big cities. Berlin's unusually large sidewalks are never crowded, and the huge streets seemed deserted. I've never been to London, but I was told that Berlin is a smidge smaller than London in terms of land, but it has half the population.

My friend Elizabeth arrived safely Monday night and we set out in search of a hostel straight away. We got a little lost and had a taste for how spread out Berlin is. Fortunately the first hostel we came to had space for us and we were lucky enough to get a private room. The hostel was clean, quite, and safe. Their were also large tasty beers for one euro. After checkin we ate at a Turkish influenced cafe and hit the pillow early.

Tuesday we got an early start and headed over to the Reichstags building. The gigantic spiraling glass dome was amazing! It was such a neat view! I would like to come back again on a clear day. After studying the curves and reflections of the dome we warmed up with a coffee at the cafe in the top of the dome. The nice thing about chilly weather is that the dome and cafe weren't crowded. The cafe was charming with a red tulip on every table.

After the Reichstag we meandered over to the memorial to the Politicians who stood up to Hitler and then over to the Brandenberg gate where we meditated in the room of silence. Then we explored the Murderd Jews of Europe memorial. I'm generally not a fan of memorials, but this one was alright. It is a forest of stones designed to look like caskets which come in various sizes. All the stones are in rows but the elevation varies and they lean slightly. The overall effect was a little dissorienting. Also, the stones were treated with an anti-graffiti chemical that has the dual affect of making the stones look like they are crying when it rains.

Later we had lunch, and joined a fantastic walking tour. After the walking tour we spent some time at the Check Point Charlie museum, had some diner, and tucked in early.

Today, (Wednesday) Elizabeth and I had the good fortune of seeing some Australians from our walking tour at the cafe where we ate breakfast. So we all had breakfast together, and enjoyed some good conversations. Then Elizabeth and I spent most of the day walking arround. Berlin has some really neat buildings, and graffiti. We walked from East Berlin, to the Bauhaus in West Berlin. I wasn't planning on going to the Bauhaus, but I REALLY enjoyed it. Previously I had no idea the effect that Bauhaus had on modern furniture, architecture, and art. Kandinsky taught at the Bauhaus too:):):).

After the Bauhaus Elizabeth had to catch her plane back to Frankfurt, and I set out to find a new hostel deep in the West of Berlin. West Berlin, has much less graffiti and charm than East Berlin, but I like it. I chose to change hotels, because I wanted to get a different experience and see more of this giganic city. I checked into my hostel, and then set out immediately. It is clear that this hostel experience will be different. I have a twin bed in a co-ed room full of I don't know how many bunk beds. This is how I imagined hostels. I'll report back later.

After checking into the hostel I caught a bus and then a train back to the East where I investigated the Egyptian museum. I went to the Egyptian museum because my little sister has a fascination with ancient Egyptian culture. Needless to say I thought about her quite a bit while I was exploring.

After the Egyptian Museum I had time to visit the Jewish Museum, but it was neither close to the trainstation nor the Egypitian museum. Since I didn't have the energy to get to two different corners of the city I chose to walk straight to the trainstation which took nearly two hours. Although my walk did involve getting a tea and getting lost. Now I'm in the internet cafe at the trainstation. I accidently bought to much time on Monday, and I know I won't have time to use it tomorrow.

Tomorrow I am going to another part of West Germany to check out an art museum that I'm super excited about. Their is another neat museum in that area too. At about 2pm I am going to start trecking over to the airport. I suspect it will take about two hours with public transit to get to the Berlin airport from the museums I want to see.

This time Tomorrow my friend Ursula and I will fly from Frankfurt to Stockholm. We get in at about 11:30pm, and from what I understand the airport in Stockholm is far from any place interesting. We are planning to sleep in the airport tomorrow night and then we will catch a train into the city. It looks like we will be staying in a hostel Friday night.